Step into Victoria and you’ll swear you’ve wandered onto a Hallmark movie set. My personal favourite location? Fan Tan Alley—it’s pure storybook charm in real life!

Fan Tan Alley: Victoria’s Narrowest, Most Mysterious Street

Tucked away in the heart of Victoria’s Chinatown is a sliver of history so narrow you might walk right past it without noticing. Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street in Canada, measures just 35 inches wide at its skinniest point—and yet, it’s packed with more character, charm, and colourful history than some entire neighbourhoods.

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A Gateway to the Past

Step through the arched entrance off Fisgard Street and you’re walking straight into a storybook.
But this isn’t just any charming side street—it’s a living time capsule. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, Fan Tan Alley was part of Victoria’s bustling Chinatown, the oldest in Canada and second-oldest in North America.

Back then, this was the entertainment district for Victoria’s Chinese community. The alley’s name comes from fan-tan, a gambling game played in small backrooms here. Visitors would climb narrow staircases into smoky rooms where cards, coins, and fortunes changed hands well into the night. Alongside gambling, the alley was also known for opium dens—perfectly legal in Canada until 1908.

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From Vice to Vintage

Over the decades, Fan Tan Alley’s reputation shifted. The gambling halls and opium dens gave way to herbalists, import shops, and, eventually, a vibrant collection of independent local businesses.
Today, the alley is a photographer’s dream—red brick walls climbing skyward, strings of lights overhead, and quirky shop signs dangling above the narrow cobblestone path.

You’ll find an eclectic mix of record shops, vintage clothing stores, art galleries, and specialty retailers tucked into its nooks and crannies. It’s one of those places where you think you’re “just popping in for a quick look,” and suddenly you’ve lost an hour exploring.

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Fan Tan Alley Fun Facts

• Narrowest Point: 35 inches (just under a metre) wide—yes, you can touch both walls at once.
• Historic Status: Part of the National Historic Site of Canada designation for Victoria’s Chinatown.
• Pop Culture: Featured in films, TV shows, and countless Instagram feeds worldwide.
• Secret Passages: In the early days, the alley connected to a hidden network of courtyards and staircases used for both business and escape routes.

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When to Visit

Fan Tan Alley is open year-round, but it shines in the late afternoon when the sunlight slants just right between the buildings, bathing the red bricks in warm golden tones. Mornings are perfect if you want quiet photos before the shops open; afternoons bring the buzz of shoppers, music drifting from the record store, and the scent of incense from nearby Chinatown shops.

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Local Tip

If you’re visiting in summer, grab a coffee or bubble tea nearby and stroll through slowly—you’ll catch little details like hand-painted signs, vintage mail slots, and intricate woodwork around the shop doors. And if you love a good spooky story, ask a local tour guide (like me!) about the alley’s ghostly legends from its more… colourful past.

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Why You’ll Love It

Fan Tan Alley isn’t just a tourist attraction—it’s a reminder that Victoria’s history is alive and well, hidden in plain sight between two brick walls. It’s a place where you can shop for vinyl, discover local art, and stand in the exact same spot where gamblers once tried their luck over a century ago.

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📸 Bring your camera—whether you’re here for the history, the shopping, or the perfect Instagram shot, Fan Tan Alley delivers. And remember, this little slice of Victoria isn’t just about the shops—it’s about the feeling you get when you step inside and realize you’ve found something truly unique.